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Greetings...frontlinemedia4270......Thanks for watching.......On a good ignition coil, like this one, there is usually, a very low, ohms/resistance reading, that will show up, on a multi-meter's screen (or, with the needle/pointer indicator, on the older type), once the test leads are connected...(on my multi-meter, I have to account for the .3 ohms resistance that the test leads have, whenever I'm testing a low amount of ohms).........This type and shape of ignition coil, might have a multi-meter reading, of, somewhere between 1.5 to about 3 ohms..........If it happens to be the 1.5 (or maybe about 2 ohms), then, it usually has, what is called, a ballast resistor, in the ignition circuit (wiring), so the ignition coil doesn't overheat and destroy itself, once the engine is running........If it happens to be, the (about) 3 ohm coil, then, there probably won't be a ballast resistor that is needed, as, that 3 ohm coil, will probably remain cool enough, and have a long life, for the most part.......I hope this helps you out, and......be safe, take care, and have a good one.

@@RockysRoadshow I am trying to diagnose a coil on a ezgo cart. It uses a coil with 2 high tension leads and has two pins which gets a 12v source and a trigger. Originally it had a plug which oriented the wires but this was cut and the two wires are free. There’s nothing on the coil to tell the placement of these wires. Ezgo has been no help yet as they claim they do not have the total online documents. What they sent me was a portion of it that ends at section H but the electrical part is in section M. Lol. So I am trying to figure this coils function by looking at other coils like this. There drawing for a different model shows another coil get the pos with the red wire and the trigger getting the white wire. Is there a way to determine what part of the coil is positive and what is negative? Thanks for your help

Greetings...sorakillswitchx.......Thanks for watching........So, you say that the secondary ohms/resistance is twice the amount, and, here's what I'm thinking.........Is you multi-meter on the correct dial setting and range?........Are your ignition coil's wiring connectors "disconnected" from the coil?...(if not, then, it might interfere with the actual reading)......Is your coil factory/stock, or is it an aftermarket one? (could be, that, it might be a high performance or other type), and, if it is, then, you'll have to find the specifications for that "exact" ignition coil.......It's also possible, that, the secondary windings, might have a slight short, that will show up as, a higher than normal, ohms/resistance reading........I hope this helps you out, and.....till next time......be safe, take care, and have a good one.

@@RockysRoadshow thanks! Multimeter was good, the ignition coil was removed completely, it was the original coil (never replaced it) I replaced it already

Greetings...danieljurgill 1681......Thank you......For me, the output voltage is tested while "Not Running", for the HEI's pick-up coil........I test mine on the workbench, by having my multi-meter set to "ac volts", and the probes, plugged into the disconnected connector, that goes to the pick-up coil.........I then spin (as fast as I can, by hand), the helical gear, that's on the bottom end of the HEI distributor, and, I usually see about 1 volt, if it's working ok........I hope this helps you out, and, till next time....be safe, take care and have a good one.

Greetings...soupflood........What works for me, is when, the HEI distributor is on the workbench, and I can get about 1 volt (ac, I think)...when I spin the helical gear (by hand), as fast as I can, while having the multi-meter set to AC volts, and the probes, hooked up to the pickup coil's connector (two wires).........If I recall correctly, the ICM (Ignition Control Module) is probably looking for a falling voltage, in order to get itself triggered, so to speak........An AC sine wave, goes up and down, kinda like a roller coaster does (ac sine wave...starts low...rises to its peak...then falls back to low...over and over again), and having the zero voltage potential point, half way, between the lowest point, and the highest peak (as I recall)........I replaced the one in this video with a new one, due to, how dried up the coil windings looked to me (probably from heat and old age), and also, how stiff (not supple/easy to bend), that, the two wire leads felt at the time.......Whenever ohms or voltage testing one of these pick-up coils, wiggle those two wires at the same time, just in case there happens to be an intermittent/internal break, inside one of those insulated wires........Also, it's very important to line-up that "dimple" (partially drilled hole), that's on the hub of that helical gear, with the metal tip, that's on the "rotor" (that's on top of the V-8 distributor)........Why you ask, well, it's because there are 13 teeth on that helical gear, and if it's installed 180 degrees out of phase, then, things get kinda messed up, and probably, rotor phasing being out as well, by being, 1/2 of a (gear) tooth out, just sayin'........Funny how I got introduced into learning a bit, about HEI distributors, and it goes like this.......I had a chevy 350 V-8 (circa 1979), that had a misfire happening.......Ah, I thought (to myself), it's gotta be that new fangled electronic (HEI) distributor, that's causing the problem........So, I decided to fire the good ole parts cannon at it, a bit at a time, as in, new cap, rotor, ignition module, and pick-up coil, as well as, new spark plugs and spark plug wires (good ones...lol) too, and the misfire seemed to lessen a bit........That misfire, turned out to be, the number 4 cylinder's, exhaust valve's, "Camshaft Lobe", that went from being a lobe (oval shape), to almost being, a round circle, due to "not seeing" that particular "rocker arm", hardly doin' the teeter-totter movement, like all of the other 15 of them were doing...!!!....Well, if it wasn't for me, blaming that poor ole HEI distributor for that misfire, then, I might not have, learned much about them, and, this youtube video is probably a result of that (fortunate mistake), that I made, quite some time ago........If you have any questions at all, just leave a comment/question, under any of my youtube videos, and, till next time.....be safe, take care, and have a good one.

@@RockysRoadshow I've also read that the pickup coil can be tested with a red LED. If it lights while the distributor is turned, the coil is okay. I can only hope my van doesn't have a bad cam. I don't know if you watched my video of my van. It's got a 3.1L V6 engine (almost half the cylinders volume of your 350) from 1991, was wondering if your 350 from the 70's sounded about the same (Scroll to minute 2 or 3 in the video to bypass the distributor inspection intro if you want). Oh, one other important simptom of this engine is it's really sluggish until it gets to operating temperature. Like, it won't even have the power to get beyond 30mph in order for the gearbox to switch to the last gear (3rd) - unless the coolant gets over 60°C (140F). My next move would be to replace the fuel pump. Maybe it's brushes and commutator are almost done. I saw a date on it if my memory serves me right "2016" so I figure it's about time for a replacement anyway. I was recommended to buy a fuel pressure tester but it costs more than the pump itself.

Greetings...belloa3026......Thanks for watching......You asked, what would I do different, when it comes to lean burn........Well, it all depends upon, what you want it to end up as, as in, almost stock/factory, so it will have all of its factory parts and pieces, so it will pass a visual test at the smog testing station? (maybe)..........If the vehicle does not have to go through the smog test, and the area where you live, doesn't care how the vehicle is modified, then, there are, quite a few things that I would change alright.........I would get rid of the lean burn system altogether..........A different distributor, that has advance weights and springs, and a vacuum advance unit mounted onto it, so it will work, shall we say, the old school way........I would also get a basic looking thermoquad carburetor, much like the thermoquad, that you see in my youtube videos, that does not have all of those extra parts and gadgets, showing on the outside of the thermoquad carburetor, that way, it will be much easier to work on, and tune as well........I've never had, or worked on a lean burn system at all...........Do a search on youtube, for people that have done, the elimination of the lean burn system, in order to see, all of the work that needs to be done, if that's what you're really after, in the long run........You can still, just rebuild your lean burn thermoquad, by getting a rebuild kit for it, if you want to........If you do, then, buy 2 new "Brass" floats, as those black/nitrophyl floats, can at times, absorb gasoline, and start to sink, which will cause a rich (air/fuel ratio), running thermoquad.........Good luck with, what choice, you might make, and.....be safe, take care, and have a good one.

Never mind. Heat and penetrating oil followed by gentle prying around circumference popped it out. (2 days later.)

Greetings johnparker4836.....Thanks for watching......In order to remove the shaft from the HEI's aluminum housing, you will have to remove the roll pin with a punch of some kind, then, remove the gear and the washer that goes between the gear and housing......Sometimes, there is a carbon/sludge kind of build-up, that can be stuck onto the middle portion of the shaft, that can make it difficult to get the shaft out......Try to get some penetrating oil into both ends of the housing, where the shaft just starts showing....Then what I do, is to, pull the shaft quite firmly, while rotating it back and forth a lot of times, and for me, it always comes out, sometimes not so easy, and sometimes, not much of a struggle at all.......When it comes time to put it all back together, then, this step, is very, VERY IMPORTANT!!!........On the "gear", there is usually a "Dimple" (as in, a partially drilled hole/not very deep), that is quite close to, where the hole for the roll pin is located........This "Dimple", has to "line-up" with the "Rotor's Metal tip", once it is mounted/screwed, back onto the top of the HEI's weight assembly.......If it installed 180 degrees out, to where it should be, then, it might cause, some strange, kinda, ignition related misfire, I be thinkin'.......If I recall correctly, that gear has "13 teeth" on it, which is an odd number, that can't be equally divided in half, and, if it is installed 180 degrees out, the "clocking" (angular alignment), would be in the neighborhood, of being 1/2 of a tooth out, possibly........If your problem wasn't what I was tellin' you about, just above these words, then, just type another comment/question, and I'll try to help you out.......Good luck, and.....be safe, take care, and have a good one.

@@RockysRoadshow Thanks for the feedback. I experienced the shaft seizure as you described and figured that out after a day or two. I was able to get the coil housing off as decribed above. I did not know about the dimple, and have inserted the distributor, but may have to pull it again to look. The problem I am having now is the car will start and run fine. I noticed a "jump" in timing mark that bothered me, but was able to set it. Problem is; car runs for 30 seconds to a couple minutes now, then just dies as if I turned off the key. This has stopped me dead for a few days, and I wonder now if being 180 out would cause the stall. Sure seems likely, and thank you so much for mentioning this. Edit: After reading a few forums just now, I think mine is in correctly. One of the issues I had was rotor pointing to passenger side (cylinder no. 2) at number one tdc, instead of driver's side cylinder no. 1. This caused interference with plenum, so had to move all wires one spot over to be able to turn distributor far enough for initial timing. It's in there now squarely so I could move wires back to optimum position for twisting without interference. (Had to twist oil pump with a screwdriver, to get it seated. (That bump the engine drop-in method can break teeth I hear.) Trouble shoot goes on for stalling. I have no scanner comms, so back to figuring out why EST bypass no longer throws a code, and ESC may be bad, and damaged ECM driver(s) finally, if ESC chart hasn't led me astray. No codes either. Can't run long enough to test things. Any thoughts greatly appreciated.

@@johnparker4836 Greetings...johnparker4836........Here are a few things for you to try/consider........If you have a timing light with an inductive pick-up clamp, that clamps onto a spark plug wire, then, connect your timing light, onto each spark plug wire (one at a time), in order to see, if each of the cylinders, are getting a good steady "pulse" (aka, bright strobe flash), so to speak, as in, does the timing light, show even light flashes, as the engine is at idle speed, as well as, at a bit higher in RPM's as well...???.......I had a V-8, that had a similar, stall at idle problem, and, I also, initially suspected, that it was ignition related as well........What it turned out to be, was that, the carburetor's..."idle circuit"...passageway (one or both of them) were plugged up a bit too much, and, even though I turned up the idle speed screw quite a bit, it would slow down, and then stall, dead as a door-nail...lol.......So, I rebuilt that carburetor, (new brass float too), and reset all of the choke adjustments and such, and now, it idles like new, and, if I just touch the gas pedal, it accelerates, like the damn thing is fuel injected...!!!...lol.......If you care to, just let me know, what you vehicle happens to be, so I know what you are dealing with, as in...year...make...model...engine...etc......Good luck, and......be safe, take care and have a good one.

​@@RockysRoadshow 1986 Pontiac T/A w 305 FI . Fuel pressure is 35-42 when running, up to 42 when stalling, just a glitch upward upon stall. New ICM, pickup coil. Runs, idles down after cold start injector swithches off. Revs fine, smoothly, settles, runs, then just shuts off like a switch. ADD: It used to just start and shut off before new pickup coil change. Timing is 6 btc base with bypass unhooked per spec. Slight jump once when timing, but resolved before next stall. Cannot run long enough to troubleshoot. Looking at Electronic Spark Control; checking ECM charts for clues. Bypass no longer sets a trouble code when disconnected as it should. Fuel rail and regulator rebuilt. Fuel filter replaced less than 100 miles ago last summer. New intake gaskets, Mass Air Flow sensor, goes into closed loop. O2 sensor working. No ecm codes. Computer won't communicate with Actron obd1 interface; there is a signal present on the serial line. (This makes troubleshooting laborious and primitive.)

Greetings...rapdaddy2642......Thanks for watching......I recall the first time, that these two X-rings (o-rings), caused quite the rich running Thermoquad alright......They came out, lookin' just like dried-up/mangled shoe leather...lol.......The other thing that happened to me, was also a rich running condition.......It turned out to be, the float (made of Nitrophyl/closed foam material), that was in the passenger/left side float bowl, and, it was absorbing gasoline, and started to sink down, lower in that float bowl, which caused a higher than wanted, fuel level, which would allow fuel droplets, to drip down into the passenger side, primary throttle bore, at idle speed (I actually saw it happening, with my own two eyes!!!...lol).......Next time I rebuild a Thermoquad carb, I'm only going to use "Brass" floats, so I won't have the dreaded, Sponge-Bob, float problems anymore...lol...and, be safe, take care, and have a good one.

Greetings...holmeydude...Thanks for watching...When it comes to cleaning a thermoquad's resin float bowl, I just use gasoline and an old toothbrush for the main scrubbing...Then, a Q-tip, bamboo skewer, toothpick, or whatever works, that will get into the much smaller areas and corners, in order to git-er-done...By using something chemically stronger, such as carb cleaner, then, it might, shall we say, "eat up" that good ole resin float bowl...The thermoquad's resin float bowl, holds up very well to gasoline however...Check those two "caps", that are glued onto the bottom of that resin float bowl, and if they are loose or leaking, then, once removed, sand the two mating surfaces on the bottom of the float bowl, as well as the two caps...Make sure that everything is dry and clean, then, glue them back into place, using something like "JB Weld" (a kind of, industrial strength, two part, epoxy/glue)...Make sure, to be "outside", and far away from, any sparks or flame, whenever working with gasoline, for safety's sake...Good luck, and...be safe, take care, and have a good one.

Greetings...thomasdearment3214...Thanks for watching, and for commenting too...Kinda odd, that, the so called holly experts, couldn't get that holly carb to run right...If the poor running was at idle speed, then perhaps, something was plugged-up in the idle circuit, or maybe the idle mixture screws were not adjusted properly...If the problem was accelerating from a stop, then, it might have been a bad or miss-adjusted accelerator pump (sometimes, a strong backfire can rupture the accelerator pump's diaphragm on an older holly carb, that will result in really rich running...the later ones, should have backfire protection, designed/built into them)...It might have even been a bad gasket that goes between the bottom of the carb, and the top of the intake manifold, creating a vacuum leak, which can really mess things up, especially at idle speed...With the carter thermoquad, I've had rich running problems, mostly at idle speed...This was mostly caused by the two little o-rings, that go into the float bowl (one on each side), then, the top casting (air horn) squishes down on top of those o-rings, in order to create, a, shall we say, gasoline proof seal...What usually happens, is that, those two little o-rings, tend to dry-up over the years, and then, the (gasoline) leak, starts to happen...If it's really bad, then, it idles so rich, that it will bug ur eyes, quite a bit...I had it so bad one time, that, I could even smell gasoline, on the (oil level checking) dipstick, when I checked the engine's oil level...I couldn't believe how much gasoline that leaked past those two bad o-rings, every time I shut the engine off, and having the thermoquad's two float bowls, virtually drain themselves, right through the bottom of the carb, and then, all the way down, into the oil pan, and that, is what I found out, when I did the oil change, or was it, "gas-n-oil change"...lol........Be safe, take care, and have a good one.

@@RockysRoadshow Carters belong on MOPARs, didn't mess with Hollys after that too much, however the one holly that didn't give me grief was a Holly econo master I put on my Catilina 400 ci to replace the Rochester sieve that was on it, surprising didn't rob it of too much HP and got around 14 - 15 in town and 18 on the road I was impressed now I'm a fuel injected fan

Greetings...Vize_Iron.........In order to see what your fuel pump should look like, go over to Rockauto (car parts website)........Once you get there, just look up your vehicle's year, make, model, and engine size, then find on there, where there should be, (more then one) picture of your vehicle, engine's fuel pump........Then, compare your fuel pump's actuating arm, to the ones that you see on Rockauto's website.........Upon installation, make sure that, you put the fuel pump's actuating "Arm", onto the eccentric (wobbly diameter), on the "correct" side of the actuating arm (you might have to "tilt" the fuel pump a bit, before you bolt it down)........Look at your old/used fuel pump's actuating arm, for a worn/smooth, small area, where the eccentric was rubbing on it, in order to, be able to, install the actuating arm, on the correct side of, that, good ole eccentric........Good luck, and......Be safe, take care, and have a good one.

Greetings...babybrazaa..........If your pop riveting tool is like mine, then try this...Try opening the handles of the tool, apart from each other (while also having a pop rivet in the tool), then squeeze the handles together, (two or more times, if need be), and hopefully, by doing so, you'll be able to hear and see the rivet, shall we say, go "Pop"..........The pop riveting tool that I have, works kinda like a ratchet, so to speak, and, you might have to open and close those two handles a few times, in order to pull the pop rivet far enough through the tool, to the point, where lots of pressure is placed on the pop rivet, in order to have that wire -like part of the pop rivet, break-away from the head part of the pop rivet...Good luck, and...be safe, take care, and have a good one.